Just because we moved to India and it's officially autumn doesn't mean we can't have One Last Road Trip of the Summer (you know how much we love road trips). So last week when word spread that the landslides had finally been cleared and the roads were passable, some new friends (we have friends!) invited us to join their group for a long weekend in the mountains where they are starting up a fly-fishing outfit in the region known as the Garhwal (which is easy to remember because it rhymes with narwhal, which is, let's face it, everybody's favorite small Arctic whale).
The drive was dramatic in daylight, but once the sun set and we maneuvered over one-lane cliff-side passes, spinning wheels through the landslide muck and sending rocks off the unprotected side some thousand vertical feet below, there were moments of well this would be an annoying way to die. One of our vehicles got impossibly stuck and another suffered a transmission failure so that it could only, for the next four hours, drive in first gear. But we finally arrived at our destination, alive and somewhat exhausted, in a remote river valley where perched our marvelous lodge and tent camp. And that was just the beginning.